The first thing I notice about Easter Island when flying in the 2500 miles from Peru this morning, is how thick the marine air is. The average temperature year round is a comfortable 68 degrees farenheit, but a balmy 77% humidity. As we pass through the clouds on our descent the delination is so marked that it virtually splits my window pane into clear and fleecy sections, like a scuba diving thermocline between fresh and salt water where a river inlet meets the sea. The next thing is how horses have free rein of the airport itself -- all but the runways. The next thing is the "manana" squared approach to life. Absolutely nobody is in a hurry. You receive a lei greeting upon landing. The presentation can be dragged out with great fanfare, and baggage will have to wait ! This is Polynesia, even though Spanish is spoken and it nominally belongs to Chile. You see this in traffic. Nobody tries to pass, most are content with 25 to 30 mph, and you don't hear engines straining to shift gears. The architecture is laid-back Hanalei in Kauai, circa 1960. Even the dogs lack ambition. They can hardly be bothered to lift their leg ...
I have had only 45 minutes sleep all night long, but am so jazzed to see this long-awaited world power grid vortex spot that after securing my hostel, I immediately take off on another exploratory gander. No destination in mind. It is overcast, I change to shorts and slaps, and just drift. At first it is city streets only, in the sole settlement on Easter Island -- the village of Hanga Roa. But then on the outskirts of town, after a relatively short walk, I spot my first Ahu. These are major engineered volcanic rock platforms, which serve as the base for the majestic Moai -- the mysterious carved volcanic statues which have made Easter Island famous, and serve as her establishing iconography. The first one I look at is called Ahu Tahai, with Ahu Va Huri close nearby. The latter is distinguished by a huge reddish top knot (pukao) almost but not quite resembling the bowler hats so reminiscent of middle age and elderly women in Bolivia. Again, horses have the run of the grounds. Nobody bothers to restrain them (they do however, have brands indicating owership).
The origin of the people of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) goes back to Marae Renga, an island in the Marquesas chain, according to tribal legend. A tribal war between two brothers around 400 AD saw the defeated contingent needing to find a new homeland. Seven warriors took out to sea, found Easter Island, returned to Marae Renga, and brought those under the defeated brother (Hotu Matu'a) back to Easter Island. These seven are prominently represented in an equal number of Moai looking outward from near the middle of the island. Almost all the nearly 1000 Moai on Easter Island (from 1 to 21 meters tall, and showing primarily the head and torso of male figures) are placed in a ring around the island coastline. While all but one ( the exception being a Moai named Riki Riki) look inward, the seven (Ahu Akivi) look out to sea. I will learn the significance of this disparity Tuesday, when I take my one-on-one tour with an island guide.
The kings of the island, were selected by birthright. The sons of Hotu Matu'a -- like the 12 tribes of Israel -- became the different clans that eventually populated the island. This Royal Family became responsible for carrying out sacred rituals which kept the tribes in contact with their ancestors, and were guardians of island sacred writings (Ronga Ronga) and accumulated knowledge related to the healing arts, astronomy, and agriculture. Thus, they kept their authority in the island's socio-economic order.
Approximately 1000 AD, the island went through an explosive population growth phase, and the first Moai were produced. Around 1680, wars between clans on the 15 x 7 mile island resulted in the end of Moai production (about 390 were abandoned in their quarries on the volcanic hillsides of the island), and the toppling of others already erected. On Easter Day in 1722, Dutch Admiral Jacob Roggeween became the first European to sight the island, and the date stuck later on in providing this mysterious isle its name. It was later annexed by Chile in 1888. In latter years, Easter Island has become a poster child for warning signs of ecological disaster, as the tribes that at one time flourished here, misused their resources (their forests and agriculture) to the point they did not even have enough material to construct boats to leave the island. The survivors of continuing internacine warfare, lived in caves, and were forced eventually to engage in cannabilism. At one point the island population nearly disappeared. Today, the population is approximately 3800.
Next: The Secrets of Easter Island
I have had only 45 minutes sleep all night long, but am so jazzed to see this long-awaited world power grid vortex spot that after securing my hostel, I immediately take off on another exploratory gander. No destination in mind. It is overcast, I change to shorts and slaps, and just drift. At first it is city streets only, in the sole settlement on Easter Island -- the village of Hanga Roa. But then on the outskirts of town, after a relatively short walk, I spot my first Ahu. These are major engineered volcanic rock platforms, which serve as the base for the majestic Moai -- the mysterious carved volcanic statues which have made Easter Island famous, and serve as her establishing iconography. The first one I look at is called Ahu Tahai, with Ahu Va Huri close nearby. The latter is distinguished by a huge reddish top knot (pukao) almost but not quite resembling the bowler hats so reminiscent of middle age and elderly women in Bolivia. Again, horses have the run of the grounds. Nobody bothers to restrain them (they do however, have brands indicating owership).
The origin of the people of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) goes back to Marae Renga, an island in the Marquesas chain, according to tribal legend. A tribal war between two brothers around 400 AD saw the defeated contingent needing to find a new homeland. Seven warriors took out to sea, found Easter Island, returned to Marae Renga, and brought those under the defeated brother (Hotu Matu'a) back to Easter Island. These seven are prominently represented in an equal number of Moai looking outward from near the middle of the island. Almost all the nearly 1000 Moai on Easter Island (from 1 to 21 meters tall, and showing primarily the head and torso of male figures) are placed in a ring around the island coastline. While all but one ( the exception being a Moai named Riki Riki) look inward, the seven (Ahu Akivi) look out to sea. I will learn the significance of this disparity Tuesday, when I take my one-on-one tour with an island guide.
The kings of the island, were selected by birthright. The sons of Hotu Matu'a -- like the 12 tribes of Israel -- became the different clans that eventually populated the island. This Royal Family became responsible for carrying out sacred rituals which kept the tribes in contact with their ancestors, and were guardians of island sacred writings (Ronga Ronga) and accumulated knowledge related to the healing arts, astronomy, and agriculture. Thus, they kept their authority in the island's socio-economic order.
Approximately 1000 AD, the island went through an explosive population growth phase, and the first Moai were produced. Around 1680, wars between clans on the 15 x 7 mile island resulted in the end of Moai production (about 390 were abandoned in their quarries on the volcanic hillsides of the island), and the toppling of others already erected. On Easter Day in 1722, Dutch Admiral Jacob Roggeween became the first European to sight the island, and the date stuck later on in providing this mysterious isle its name. It was later annexed by Chile in 1888. In latter years, Easter Island has become a poster child for warning signs of ecological disaster, as the tribes that at one time flourished here, misused their resources (their forests and agriculture) to the point they did not even have enough material to construct boats to leave the island. The survivors of continuing internacine warfare, lived in caves, and were forced eventually to engage in cannabilism. At one point the island population nearly disappeared. Today, the population is approximately 3800.
Next: The Secrets of Easter Island
Hi, Larry-Best photos yet! Can't wait to see and hear more about Easter Island's unique mysteries, once I stop laughing that 'even the dogs lack ambition'? Sounds like you immediately found 'island time'. Interested if you will draw any parallels between Easter Island's energies and other power vortex locations you may have visited (Sedona? Hawaii?)
ReplyDeleteDo you think someday in thousands of years that pilgrims will flock to visit the Great Wall of Kirkland that we erected and marvel at how we built it with such crude tools?
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