Only have two full days here. This is my second day. It has been diminished by a computer that is hopelessly compromised. Can't add pix. The "Enter Network Password" message comes up each five seconds and blocks my screen. Now, the mouse won't work. This is what it must be like to be Dyslexic or to have heavy metal music interruptiing your mental processes constantly. But I am a persistent SOB, and we are going to slog through this. This is being written in the early evening -- a good time, as it is too hot earlier to venture out for the most part (only thing you see are Dogs walking their mad Englishmen) and so hanging at a shaded cafe or indoors becomes the norm. Life doesn't begin here, until 9 PM or so. At least for the traveler. For those following in Seattle, there is a 6 hour time difference. This originally posted at 1:49 PM, which is7:49 PM here.
Uraguay is beautiful, in its own way. Very warm, very temperate weather for the most part, but gets the wind from the coast, so you don't get roasted outside the 3 to 6 PM slot. The people are not well-to-do -- perhaps 4th or 5th on the scale of Latin American economies on a per capita basis -- but they are very friendly and helpful. Not many of them speak English. At least here in the capital of Montevideo, they seem very family oriented. All except for the crowd outside my window until 4 AM, which was akin to a group of howler monkeys who has sensed the presence of an intruder and were screeching, gesticulating wildly, singing, drinking, and vomiting until the light came up. Could not tell how many were locals, and how many were travelers or vistors from elsewhere in South America. But they seemed to be having a good time. Didn't see any fights.
Early last evening, while getting acclimated and completely frustrated at computer breakdowns, I started walking along the waterfront. From the "Old Town" portion down near the docks, to the pier (one of the longest in the world), to the waterfront walkway. Like its famous counterpoint in Barcelona, it too is called "Las Ramblas" but changes names in part along its frontage as it meanders around the coast. Only intended to walk the most scenic portions. But was terribly intrigued by the olocal custom of drinking Mate' (several on a glass), and the walking en masse. Uruguayans also jaywalk en masse, interestingly enough. Nobody stops them or makes a fuss about the situation;. The light here is incredible, at leas this time of year ... it is like early morning in Yosemite National Park, in California. Makes for great photo opportunities. You probably won't get to see any for awhile, as Microsoft and their Outlook Tribe don't really make themselves "available" easily in South America. Took a picture of what has to be one of the world's largest family skate parks at 9 PM next to the coast, and it looked like High Noon in Arizona. Very charming, to see families spending time together and without breaking the bank. Some of them were actually looking at each other, as well.
Continued my walk for a total of 20 kilometres. That is about twelve miles. Didn't intend this. But the scenery and customs and special moments of families fishing together and skating together and walking together, drew me on. This, contrasted with the concurrent worldwide pattern of teenagers glued to their cellphones, and completely oblivlous to everything going on around them, to the point they knock into you while walking. I could have robbed about a dozen of them blind and pantsed them, and they truly would not have noticed.. At what I figured to be the end of my walk, had a glass of Pinot Noir, and a local specialty -- limon helado y champagne. Lemon ice cream, frozen in combo with champagne, and served chilled. Priceless ! Upon my return, tried to hail a taxi. No luck. Walked another five kilometres before a taxi picked me up for the final eight miles home. All in all, a good day, but missed the usual social interactions which take place with such amazing regularity most times.
In closing, thought I'd mention some daily purchases. Gives some idea of scale of what things cost. First of all, the peso here is about 20 to the dollar, if (and only if) you make your exchange via cash machine or at the bank. At the airport or "cambia shops," you'll get eaten alive -- maybe 16 to 1. So: 945 pesos for my room for two nights (around $45), 55 pesos for an electrical 3-prong adapter for utensils like the computer which have a grounded plug, 665 pesos for a memory card for the camera and an 8 GB thumbdrive, 19 pesos for lemonade, 400 pesos for a Mate' cup and its special filtered metal straw (a bombisha) that strains the herb out of the liquid, 80 pesos for a two-scoop portion of gelato (my own private addiction), and 125 pesos for a Stella Artois beer that came in its own champagne bucket and was large enough to shoot down B-52s with.
Next: Ushuaia ! "The End Of The World"
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