THE NILE WEST BANK AT LUXOR – AN EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES

Luxor – the “City of Palaces” – need not count on the ruins of royalty lodgings or temples to be given the utmost consideration by either the casual or the serious traveler.  Probably no other city in a country full of embarrassing riches has as many dynamic, thrilling world-class archeological attractions as Luxor.  This ancient Egyptian capitol of Thebes located on the east bank of the Nile is the crown jewel of Egypt.

Worth a chapter in its own right is The Valley of The Kings.  This is the burial place of the Pharaohs.   It is located in a canyon on the west side of the Nile opposite Luxor.  These tombs were dug deep into limestone, rather than created out of tooled granite stones in the shape of pyramids.  Serious attempts were made to hide the royal necropolis, rather than flaunt its location as in the Giza Plateau outside Cairo.  Sixty-three grave sites have been identified in the valley, mostly of New Kingdom monarchs in the years 1339 to 1075 BC.

The tombs here have been explored for nearly 200 years.  In 1911, almost concurrent with a statement by the director of the US Patent Office that “there is nothing else left to invent,” the licensee for excavations in the valley exclaimed: “I fear there is nothing left to discover.  The valley is exhausted.”  KV63 (King’s Valley 63) was the latest verified tomb discovered, in 2005.

Two other tomb entrances were said to have been unearthed in 2008, but have not been designated with KV monikers yet.  A number of tombs from Pharaohs known to have been buried in the valley have yet to be discovered:  those include Thutmose II, and Rameses the VIII, X, and XI.  Perhaps, with the greater utilization of ground penetrating radar, these will come to light some day.  One such find took place in 2006 and was referred to as KV64 but has yet to be officially declared a royal tomb.

At any given time, 18 of the 63 tombs are available to the public.  But not all are open at the same time.  Perhaps the most impressive belong to Amenhotep I and Rameses II (Rameses the Great, KV7), which at the time of my visit was undergoing renovation.  A nearby tomb (KV5) excavated to provide for his 200+ children (!) remains the largest tomb in the valley with over 120 chambers.  Many of the tombs contain graffiti, often in multiple languages, and much of it going back over 1000 years.

The most famous tomb, yet one of the least impressive in the valley, is that of King Tutankhamen, discovered by Howard Carter (with the help of a mule) in 1922.  It was recovered along with its royal treasures and Tut’s sarcophagus and mummy nearly intact.  Most tombs in the valley, no matter how well hidden, have however been robbed by tomb raiders.

The typical tomb has an open shaft -- though many were covered with debris from digging, flash floods, and waterfalls – and then a long inclined tunnel leading to side chambers and ultimately a burial vault.  The Pharaoh Queen Hatshepsut’s chamber for example is 97 meters deep and embedded over 200 meters into the hillside.  Most were richly decorated and contained many relics for a comfortable transition to the afterlife.

My visit to the Wadi Abwab al Muluk Valley on the west bank begins with a stop at the relatively new Tourist Center.  This low-key building gives the curious an informed head start toward the tombs half a mile away. It features explanatory panels in multiple languages and a pleasing collection of tomb related paintings.  The part most appreciated by me, however was a scale model of the east valley and all its tombs.

This included black trails and tomb markers showing above-ground contouring and relative positioning to other tombs.  Ground level is shown in clear plastic.  Snakelike descent shafts and tunnels below ground can be seen through this plastic or viewed separately from below, revealing in fine detail their many bends and twists and subterranean chambers.

The three tombs I visited were those of Rameses III, the rare wife and husband pharaoh team of Queen Tausert and King Setnakhy (from the 19^th and 20^th Dynasties), and Rameses IV.  Any tomb open to the public is worth a peek, if for no other reason than to escape the scorching heat of the valley floor.  But I found the tomb of Rameses IV the most pleasing.

This was due to the fact he had a short reign and built no significant public buildings or monuments, concentrating all his creative powers on fashioning a colorfully decorated burial place for himself.  It also displayed much amusing antique graffiti.  The tomb remained very well preserved in almost every respect.  The guards also let me take as many interior photos as I wished – a rare privilege, at no extra charge!

Along the way to the west valley of Wadi Abwab al Muluk (loosely called the Valley of The Queens), I encounter the Colossi of Memnon.  This is a mammoth twin set of seated statues honoring the Pharaoh Amenhotep III.

Including the stone platforms on which they stand the statues reach an impressive 18 meters in height and weighed an estimated 720 tons each. The two heavily damaged figures, about 15 meters apart, originally functioned to stand guard at the entrance to Amenhotep’s Mortuary Temple.  This was a titanic structure that was the largest and most lavish in Egypt (even larger than the Temple of Karnak on the opposite shore at Luxor) where he was worshipped as a living deity.  It covered a total of 86 acres.

The Valley of The Queens lays opposite the Valley of The Kings, in the west divide of  Wadi Abwab al Muluk.  Not only are wives of pharaohs buried here, but important members of the nobility and children of the supreme monarchs as well.  In New Kingdom terms, it was known as Ta-Set-Neferu, meaning "the place of the Children of the Pharaoh."

This necropolis holds more than seventy tombs, many of which are colorful and copiously decorated. An example of this is the resting place for Queen Nefertari (chief consort of Rameses the Great) of the 19th Dynasty.   Due to dry heat and low humidity her exquisite wall paintings are still vibrantly visible despite their 3200 years of aging.

The three tombs I was allowed to visit here in the time allotted were the burial chambers of Amenherkhepshef (son of Rameses III), Quettite II (the second wife of that pharaoh), and Khaemweset, second son of Rameses II.  Perhaps because of his beloved status in Nile Valley culture as the Kingdom’s first recognized “Egyptologist” – the result of  efforts in identifying and restoring Egyptian buildings, tombs and temples – this third chamber was the most ornate tomb.   Like Queen Nefertari’s nearby crypt, the state of color brilliance and preservation of Khaemweset’s wall paintings is remarkable.

Last tour stop of the first day in Luxor is at the Temple of Hatshepsut – also located in Deir el-Bahri Valley
-- referred to a number of times previously in this narrative.  This is the site where 62 visitors were murdered in 1997 by jihadists presumably from the Egyptian Sunni Islamic movement El Gama’a El Islamiyya.  No obvious evidence of the attack remains today.  But the residue of its memory still has a decided chilling effect on the tourist industry along the entire Nile Valley.

Hatshepsut is distinguished in history for being one of the most successful pharaohs of Ancient Egypt. As a woman she is generally regarded the first female historical figure whose contributions are known to modern historians. Hatshepsut (the daughter of Tuthmosis I), was the fifth Pharaoh of the 18^th Dynasty.

She ruled briefly with her husband/half-brother Tuthmosis II, who subsequently died before a second wife bore him a son (Tuthmosis III).  Rather than abdicate to the second wife and the child, Hatshepsut became co-regent of the infant Pharaoh – then assumed full power on her own.

To legitimize her rule, she had herself declared a man, and ordered images prepared depicting herself in a man’s royal garb and with a man’s beard.  She also went to great lengths to foster a narrative whereby her birth was arranged by the gods.  She is thought to have ruled Egypt on her own for 22 years, from 1470 to 1458 BC.  Upon her death Tuthmosis III assumed rule of the Kingdom, and had all her public images and monuments disfigured.  The first Pharaoh Queen was thus lost to history until her rediscovery in the 20^th century.

Hatshepsut was successful in re-establishing trade relationships that had been disrupted by occupation of the Hyksos people, leading to great economic prosperity during her reign. This allowed The Pharaoh Queen to become a prolific builder. The number of projects initiated and the extent to which the bar was raised for architectural daring during her rule is legendary.  Her unique colonnaded Mortuary Temple presaged Classical Greek Architectural design by 1000 years and remained without peer until The Acropolis was later erected in Greece.

When first encountered, the scope of this complex takes your breath away -- even with only half of it excavated and much of it has been pilfered for building material.  This impact is magnified by the isolation of the site, located amongst limestone cliffs lurking above it like a hanging tidal wave.  The site is awe inspiring enough to be termed the Djeser-Djeseru (or “Splendor of Splendors”) even when not fully restored.

A broad 30 meter ramp leads to the temple, which consists of three terraced courtyards lined with sculpted panels. The terraces have a bare and orderly appearance.  In Hatshepsut's time they were however colorfully decorated by myrrh trees, lush green gardens, and fountains. The queen herself acquired the trees on a famous journey to the Land of Punt (thought to be modern day Somalia).  This journey is portrayed in the Middle Terrace.

Lions flanked the top and bottom of this first and longest ramp. The right side of the terrace contains the so-called Birth Colonnade, illustrating scenes of Hatshepsut's suggested divine origins. Other offerings in various forms are depicted of either Hatshepsut or Thutmosis III interacting with the gods Sokaris (a sun god with a falcon's head), Hathor, and Anubis (the dog-headed god).

The left side of the terrace is dominated by the Punt Colonnade.  The reliefs on these pillars show Hatshepsut's journey to the Land of Punt to bring back myrrh trees for this temple. At the end of the Punt Colonnade is the Chapel of Hathor. A first chamber shows Hathor appearing in bovine and human forms and suckling Hatshepsut (not defaced here after death).  A second chamber has remarkably colorful reliefs of Egyptian festivals. 

At the top of a second ramp to the left of the middle terrace was the Djeser-Djeseru ("Splendor of Splendors"), a colonnaded structure built into the vertical cliff face rising sharply above. An Upper Terrace (reached via a sturdy ramp flanked with vultures' heads) has only recently opened to visitors after years of excavations and restorations by Polish and Egyptian archaeologists. From there is a fine overview of the Nile Valley and now barren channels which used to bring the waters of the Nile close to the temple.

On the third terrace the Sanctuary of Hatshepsut is to the left -- it bears carved reliefs of priests and offerings to the gods. On the right side is the Sanctuary of the Sun, an open court with a central altar. Finally in the center far to the back is the Sanctuary of Amun, dug into the cliff and aligned so that it points towards Hatshepsut's own tomb in the adjacent Valley of the Kings.

The overall impression of Hatshepsut’s Temple is glorious but spare, and access to key points is often restricted, so that a visit here does not require a lengthy allotment of time.

After a hot and exhausting day on the West Bank, the evening is spent with one of the great characters of this entire journey – Ashraf (“Ash”) Zarif Ebrahem.  He welcomes me graciously to “7 Days, 7 Ways” Restaurant and Pub back on the east side of the river.  Ash promises to make me lamb tagine (cooked in a small enclosed clay pot, which seals in the juices and must be cracked to release the spicy meat) the following night.  He does.

Ash then treats me at ridiculously reduced Happy Hour prices to a septet of creatively named drinks, including: The Leg Closer, The Carriage Driver, The Tomb Opener, The West Bank, King Tut’s Last Wish, The Restrainers, and the Felucca Flatulater.  While enjoying his pours, I offer a lengthy list of alternate drink names, and we depart on boisterous terms until the following night.

The real coup de grace for this first night in Luxor, however, is at the Sofra Restaurant & Café, a short distance walk away.  It is featured in numerous guidebooks, and promises a “culinary voyage through Egypt” and “true traditional food in an oriental atmosphere in the heart of Luxor.”  The feast enjoyed here (only one of about three to be described for this entire journey) was highly memorable for its candle-lit atmosphere, private dining rooms, variety of dishes, food quality and preparation, and low prices.

For example … four dishes personally sampled were: Tagen Ferakh Bil Khodar (chicken and seasonal vegetables stewed in a spicy tomato sauce with onion, pepper, garlic and cumin at about $6).  Then: Fatta Bil Moza (lamb shank casserole with bread and rice mix flavored with garlic and vinegar topped with yogurt sauce at about $7). Then: Shorbit Adas (split lentil soup served with croutons at $2).  Finally: Koushry (rice and pasta mix, Cairo-style, topped with chickpeas, lentils, fried onions and tomato-garlic sauce at $2.60).  The liquor was (most importantly, available!) equally tasty, and also reasonably priced.