TIKAL

 

What separates majestic Tikal from the count of over 40,000 temples and settlements built by the Mayans during the height of their Central-America cultural supremacy from other top archeological ruins is the supreme verticality of the site, and its distinct remoteness.   The limestone city that housed 100,000 people at its peak around 1200 BC (when it was mysteriously abandoned, 300 years prior to the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadores) is nearly 36 miles from Flores, in Guatemala’s remote Peten Province.

 

There is very little in between.  Interestingly, just as the peak of pyramid and temple building was taking place in the Mayan empire, English castle and cathedral construction was just beginning in earnest.  We owe much to each other, in this progression of musical chairs that plays out in the sharing of and transmission of knowledge.  Even if it is unconscious.   

 

Once you arrive at this hallowed site, you realize why the Mayans had to “go big, or stay home.”  They were astrologically tremendously astute people.  They counted heavily on precise sightings of the sun to plan their crops and validate their 23 different calendars.  To do this, however, they had to surmount the high jungle canopy that surrounded them here.  Only by reaching above the treetops, could Mayan priests and astronomers get accurate summer and winter solstice or spring and autumn equinox readings.  Their culture depending on this entirely.

 

So “go big” they did.  Many of the unique design temples approach 200 foot in height, towering above the landscape in ways that is very suggestive of strong male energy.   All of the monuments at Tikal are solid.  Few have hollow interiors, only a few having burial chambers secreted between their four classic walls and corresponding steep stairways on each face.

 

Over 4000 known buildings make up the 570 square kilometer site.   Only 20% have been restored or partially excavated.  Excavations began in 1956.  Those that have been are widely separated and can take from ten to thirty minutes to reach via remote hiking loops.  The lengthy walking contributes to a sense of remoteness here -- along with the overhead canopy which shades you as one traverses from spot to spot, and the sweet jungle rot which permeates the surroundings.  Contributing are the relatively constant sounds of native howler monkeys, parrots, and toucans.

 

As usual, I hire a professional guide to direct my attentions while making the visit.  Mine was Abel Luzero, a native Guatemalan who had been giving tours locally for over 20 years.  As we hike the 1.5 kilometers toward the main plaza at Tikal from our parking lot, he immediately points out two sets of monkeys thriving there.  Spider monkeys, quiet white-haired fellows that grow up to 12 pounds, and the noisier howler monkeys, which can reach up to 25 pounds.

 

He quickly points out the latter group takes special delight in defecating on tourist heads from their lofty perches amidst the treetops.  Particularly on Americans.  “So move along quickly,” he advises in excellent English.  I soon learn however, had I been Canadian or German, for example, then that group would have been the favored targets.  Just part of Abel’s sense of humor.

 

Our next object of reference is the Ceiba tree – absolutely sacred to the Maya.  They display massive smoothbore trunks that are mindful of a green onion stalk, arching delicate branches like those found beyond the reach of giraffes and elephants on the African Serengeti, and deep root systems.

 

Our first stop is at a place called Complex Q.  Here, a partially uncovered pyramid that you can still walk to the top of towers over nine Stilas – or standing stones with stucco and plaster bass relief representations of Mayan Gods.  Next to each is a sacrificial stone used for both animals and humans.  This is a singularly important monument at Tikal, since pyramids commemorate human calendar or astrological events.  This one honors the accession of the 29^th Mayan King, Xax Num Aim, or “Josh Num Eye-Eeem” in 741 AD.

 

After a 20 minute walk, the next stop is at the tallest of the monuments in Tikal, Temple IV.  This complex was built in 741 AD.  It can also be ascended to the top.  It has the best views of the other temples in the complex as they pierce the jungle canopy (almost as if to reach up and affirm the heavens).  The dressed limestone – carved by obsidian flint chisels naturally found on the site – is mortared together with limestone mortar fired in kilns.  It is massive in appearance, and is characterized by a steep open-air altar at the top which is suggestive of a rooster comb.

 

Besides the presence of plentiful flint, the reason Tikal was sited where it is was due to the abundance of fresh water, and its position on the crown of a hill which made it more easily defended from enemies.  Evidence of habitation by other tribes – the Olmecs preceded the Maya in most of their domain – is clear at this and many other Mayan constructs.  One depended on the other to build a foundation for greater works to follow.  Just as in Europe, China, South America, and virtually everywhere else on this generationally interdependent planet.

 

From Temple IV, you can look out over – and I do mean OVER, without use of ziplines – the jungle canopy at other nearby stone monuments which pierce the sky.  That includes the Temple of the Jaguar Priests straight ahead, the Great Pyramid to our right, and the Temple of the Masks in the background.  Our elevation is about 700 feet above sea level.

 

Next stop is “El Mundo Perdido,” The Lost World, or the Gran Piramide.  This massive mound dates back to 600 BC.  The nearby plaza demonstrates an unusual style of arches not usually found in the Mayan world, evidence of communication with contact with Teotihiticlan in Mexico, nearly 1000 kilometers away.  The pyramid itself is the oldest building in Tikal and much more of a classic Mexican or Egyptian style step pyramid.  It is massive in its base, very symmetrical, and with a flat top lacks the summit comb that is so much more representative of the gravity-defying uniqueness of Tikal.

 

I ask Abel what support services were necessary to conduct this level of construction over a 2000 year period?  He guesstimates from his knowledge, training and experience that about 20% of the population was devoted to agriculture.  Much time also had to be devoted to the gathering of firewood, for both food preparation and to keep the fires which turned the omnipresent limestone into mortar.

 

Then there was the masons for dressing stone into squares and rectangles (even if soft stone).  Also necessary was the conveyance of water, which was stored almost religiously by the Maya in a large enclosure nearly a mile long close to Temple IV.  It had a high earthen enclosed damn at one end of a natural v-shaped depression – a massive piece of engineering in itself.

 

Along the way, I witness the Plaza of The Seven Temples.  Here is found a very tranquil and pleasant public square bounded by seven small temples, and a triple ballfield (jai alai is the closest modern equivalent) that is unique to the Mayan world.  

 

Beyond is the massive South Acropolis, unexcavated, but higher still than Temple IV.  It reaches so high that at times the summit is lost in the mist.  What mystery lies beneath its tangled vines and slanted trees can only be imagined.  Temple V, very close to this among the excavated mounds at Tikal, is second only to Temple IV in height.

 

Adjacent to this is the Central Acropolis, where royalty lived.  While the Maya were excellent masons (but nowhere in the league of the Incas), their engineering necessarily required wooden headers and beams on occasion for structural support.  There is evidence in this area (dating to about 700 AD) of  wooden beams dating back to this same time period.  They remain solid.

 

The thing one notices most about this enclave for the exalted ones, is how bombproof it is, for such tiny living quarters.  Here are essentially “homes” as it were, for perhaps three to four people.  The largest number of stone platformed bed chambers I noticed in any given domicile was six.  Beyond that, there was no apparent living room, family room, kitchen, or bathroom.  Just sleeping quarters, and minor storage bins built in at the head of each bed platform (typically covered with feathers and jaguar skins).

 

The supporting sidewall structure and overhead mass is sufficient to be a nuclear blast redoubt.  It all seems so … disproportionate.  Are there secret channels inside?  Secret chambers?  Areas yet remaining to be explored, if only one learned the right access?  Rather like learning to play some Mario Brothers computer games.  If I hit the right mushroom or intuit the right combination, will the secret door panel slide open?  You have to play repeatedly to learn the trick.  What is being hidden from us?  How could this much energy and material, be devoted to so little purpose?

 

Oddly, in all the elegance and strength demonstrated at Tikal, there is absolutely no evidence of banos (bathrooms) or concinas (kitchens).

 

There are many areas that are merely skimmed in passing.  Almost all of them are unexcavated. My tour officially ends after three hours.  Abel directs me out, still a half an hour’s walk away.  I elect the long way, to be able to catch Temple VI on the way out.  It is 25 meters high, about 40% of the height of the highest temples.  This complex is differentiated in Tikal by its huge crest, the largest hieroglyphic in all of Tikal at nearly 13 meters tall.

 

Pouring rain dims my enthusiasm for any more viewing.  It becomes necessary to make the long trek out to the entry and the collective vans which will take our constantly changing day alliances back to Flores.  I slip frequently on the sloped and occasionally steep limestone roads, which when wet degrade into something approximating clay.  This is compounded by rotting vegetable matter on the top, such that one is often walking on a slip-n’-slide.  Hiking boots with waffle treads are definitely recommended in Tikal!

 

This night, I celebrate a long-awaited bucket list objective being met with a special dinner in Flores.  Spaghetti, con camarones (shrimp).  And my now favorites libation, the magical Brrazilian caipirinha.  It is the relaxed end, to a long and momentous day.  In celebration, I pen a little dity.  It is as follows:

 

No matter how twisted the road

Or dire the troubles de jour

Just hoping what I’m told bears out

An elusive pursuit for sure.

 

Yet I am redeemed by fermented cane

And welcome come what may

For the playful limon elixir

Helps me find my way.

 

So let’s lift our glasses often

And let me hear you say

That you too are in agreement

The caipirinha adds grace to your day.